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The Mughal era in India is celebrated not only for its beautiful and grand architecture but also for its contribution to extraordinary jewellery craftsmanship. Mughal kings were passionate about fine and intricately designed pieces of jewellery. Thus, the Indian jewellery art evolved in this era under the patronage of the Mughal kings and queens.
The use of gold, precious gemstone settings, and innovative jewellery-making techniques has helped create masterpieces that continue to inspire modern jewellery designs.
A common example is the peacock throne commissioned by the great Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. This is an iconic masterpiece adorned with gold, diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, arranged in an intricate pattern. This piece of wonder shows the artistic excellence and incredible skills of the Mughal jewellers.
Influence of the royal patronage behind Mughal jewellery
Mughal emperors such as the great Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan played a significant role in shaping jewellery styles. During the era, they encouraged skilled artisans from Persia and Central Asia to visit India to work in jewellery workshops. This shows a blend of design elements in Indian jewellery pieces.
For instance, the great emperor Akbar was passionate about promoting jewellery pieces that depicted a cultural fusion. Again, Emperor Jahangir had a deep love and appreciation for the motifs, and hence they were included in all Meenakari works during his reign. Shah Jahan, on the other hand, had a fascination with luxury and elaborate jewellery, and hence he preferred symmetry and elegance in all pieces.
Different techniques defining Mughal jewellery
Jadau Kundan setting
One of the most distinctive techniques introduced by the Mughals was Jadau-Kundan. It involved setting the gemstones into the refined gold without prongs. This technique, to date, allows craftsmen to create smooth designs with glowing stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies.
Meenakari setting
Meenakari, or enamel work, is another famous hallmark of Mughal jewellery-making technique, in which vibrant colours are applied to the reverse sides of the ornaments to create beautiful pieces. The best aspect of the Meenakari pieces is that they look beautiful from every angle. This technique is used to feature intricate floral patterns.
Gem cutting and polishing technique
The Mughal emperors have attracted some of the finest gem cutters who introduced advanced techniques for shaping and polishing gemstones. The purpose of the technique is to enhance the natural beauty of the gemstones and make them the central pieces of the royal jewellery.
Also read this blog: How Mughal Kings Commissioned Masterpieces in Gold and Gemstones?
What are the iconic Mughal jewellery masterpieces?
The Koh i Noor diamond
This is the most legendary gemstone associated with the Mughal era. It has been passed down through generations and was admired for its exceptional size and brilliance.
The Timur ruby
This is one of the most famous Mughal jewels, a large red spinel engraved with the names of different Mughal emperors. The red ruby symbolises power and royal lineage and has been passed down through generations.
Sarpech (the Turban ornament)
The sarpech or the tuban ornament was a common piece of jewellery worn by most Mughal rulers. This is unquestionably an iconic creation, with a Kundan setting featuring diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The designs are generally inspired by nature.
If you want to experience the craftsmanship and intricacies of the Mughal era in Indian jewellery, visiting the nearest showroom of Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree since 1735 is worth it. Along with Jadau-Kundan and Meenakari, we are also the designers of the best polki jewellery in Jaipur.