The art of making of a piece of Jadau, Kundan, and Meenakari jewellery is arduous and time-consuming. It can take up to two months for a piece to go from the drawing board to the various karigars and ultimately to the customer. The word Kundan in itself means ‘pure gold’. While making a Kundan set it is preferred to use polkis – uncut or flat-cut diamond with Meena work.
The jeweller chooses a design to be prepared by a chitera (designer). Once the thoughts are on paper, the first stage of execution moves to sadaai (frame making), ghat (model making) which is done in gold. After this the intricacy in the piece is derived from khudaai (engraving) which can happen on the front or back of the piece. The depressed portion is then filled with Meena (Enamelling – Mixture of powered glass and colours). Once the back portion of the jewellery is done, the front Kundan setting is worked on gold case made, which is filled with wax.
The art of making of a piece of Jadau, Kundan, Meenakari jewellery is ardous and time consuming. It can take upto two months for a piece to go from the drawing board to the various karigars and ultimately to the customer. The word Kundan in itself means ‘pure gold’. While making a Kundan set it is preferred to use polkis – uncut or flat cut diamond with Meena work.
The jeweller chooses a design to be prepared by a chitera (designer). Once the thoughts are on paper, the first stage of execution moves to sadaai (frame making), ghat (model making) which is done in gold. After this the intricacy in the piece is derived from khudaai (engraving) which can happen on the front or back of the piece. The depressed portion is then filled with Meena (Enamelling – Mixture of powered glass and colours). Once the back portion of the jewellery is done, the front Kundan setting is worked on gold case made, which is filled with wax.
The art of making of a piece of Jadau, Kundan, Meenakari jewellery is ardous and time consuming. It can take upto two months for a piece to go from the drawing board to the various karigars and ultimately to the customer. The word Kundan in itself means ‘pure gold’. While making a Kundan set it is preferred to use polkis – uncut or flat cut diamond with Meena work.
The jeweller chooses a design to be prepared by a chitera (designer). Once the thoughts are on paper, the first stage of execution moves to sadaai (frame making), ghat (model making) which is done in gold. After this the intricacy in the piece is derived from khudaai (engraving) which can happen on the front or back of the piece. The depressed portion is then filled with Meena (Enamelling – Mixture of powered glass and colours). Once the back portion of the jewellery is done, the front Kundan setting is worked on gold case made, which is filled with wax.
The craftsman places precious or semi-precious stones in their appropriate places. Under each stone, they put a thin silver foil, which acts as a reflector for the transparent stones, very often, below the stones, coloured foils are used to give the necessary effect. The artisans places the Gold foil on and around the stones.
After continual striking on the gold foil, a wall is formed around the stones. The craftsman then, chisels, carves and clean the Jewellery piece until the Clean shine is brought to the fore by rubbing the piece with a thin rod called mashkala. The piece goes for the final embellishment, which is Puai (embellishment).
After continual striking on the gold foil, a wall is formed around the stones. The craftsman then, chisels, carves and clean the Jewellery piece until the Clean shine is brought to the fore by rubbing the piece with a thin rod called mashkala. The piece goes for the final embellishment, which is Puai (embellishment).