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Jewellery in Royal families have never been mere adornment. Rather, these pieces were showcased as a form of power. The jewellery pieces, cast in gold and set with gemstones, represented power, status, faith, and the artisans’ artistic excellence.
Across centuries, these royal jewellery designs have not only embodied power and refinement but have also influenced global design traditions. Even the best jewellery shops in Jaipur showcase royal designs influenced by royalty and tradition.
The splendour of the Mughal aesthetic
The Mughals perfected a style that combined Persian finesse with Indian exuberance. Even today, popular Mughal jewellery-making techniques such as Kundan and Meenakari are used to create elaborate gemstone carvings on jewellery pieces.
One of the most celebrated examples is the Patiala Necklace, commissioned in 1928 by Bhupinder Singh of Patiala from Cartier. Containing nearly 2,930 diamonds, including a 234.65-carat yellow De Beers diamond, this piece is an extraordinary fusion of Indian craftsmanship and Art Deco geometry. These pieces have influenced thousands of Western jewellers to embrace the design and dramatic proportions, and to take inspiration from the coloured gemstone settings.
Also, read this blog: Comeback of Heirloom Jewellery – Why Is It Becoming A Popular Choice In Luxury Weddings?
The Mughal passion for carved emeralds and spinels also shaped European tastes. As a remembrance of the Mughal craftsmanship, many jewellery houses continue to incorporate engraved gemstones in their jewellery pieces.
The Maharajas and the rise of Art Deco
Indian royalty has always been patrons of culture and jewellery craftsmanship. In the early 20th century, it was observed that Indian Maharajas began travelling frequently to European cities such as Paris and London. They used to carry Heirloom gems of different sizes and colours along with them.
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron – Some of the renowned Global Brands created customised pieces for the Indian rulers, blending the beauty of Indian gemstones with Art Deco silhouettes. The results were astonishingly beautiful. Some of the famous pieces, like multi-strand diamond cascades, bob bib necklaces and geometric tiaras, made their way into the jewellery collection.
The Tutti Frutti style, pioneered by Cartier, is another example of a piece inspired by Indian gemstones and colourful motifs. This piece features a vibrant combination of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. This piece has defined aesthetics in the Western jewellery segment.
The jewel pieces that became famous in the West
Among the various royal pieces, the Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace has gained prominence in the East and is now part of the Cartier Collection. This piece was commissioned in 1935 and reflects a harmonious combination of Indian gemstone work and European refinement.
Again, the ceremonial ornaments worn by the royals of the House of Mewar and the House of Jaipur are now used in global jewellery designs. Especially the designs of chokers, layered necklaces and sarpech have been adopted globally.
Influence on contemporary designs
The global jewellery landscape continues to use Indian designs in its pieces. The use of large emeralds and multi-gem compositions has become an integral part of high-end jewellery collections. The influence is visible in bridal jewellery as well.
At Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree, since 1735, we offer a timeless collection of immaculate designs and a sense of royalty. We have been preserving heritage for 3 centuries.