Each state in India boasts its unique styles, materials, and craftsmanship, making Indian jewellery incredibly varied and culturally significant. This exploration will cover the renowned jewellery types from various states, shedding light on the traditional and contemporary significance of these art forms.
Rajasthan, a state in the northwest of India, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, stunning architecture, vivid landscapes, and, importantly, its exquisite jewellery. The traditional jewellery of Rajasthan is not just a testament to the region’s rich history and cultural depth but also showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of its artisans. From the bustling markets of Jaipur to the quaint lanes of Udaipur, Rajasthan’s jewellery has a story to tell, reflecting both the grandeur of its royal past and the vibrant spirit of its people.
Kundan jewellery, known for its intricate design and refined elegance, is arguably the most celebrated form of traditional Rajasthani jewellery. Originating in the royal courts of Rajasthan, Kundan jewellery is created through a labor-intensive process involving the setting of precious stones in gold. The process begins with the skeletal framework called ‘Ghaat,’ followed by the ‘Paadh’ process, where lac is poured into the backside of the frame and stones are set on the front. Finally, the ‘Khudai’ process involves the embellishment of the pieces with Kundan (pure molten gold). The result is stunning jewellery pieces that exude a royal and timeless appeal, making them highly sought after for weddings and other auspicious occasions.
Meenakari is the art of coloring and ornamenting the surface of metals by fusing brilliant colors onto it. This technique was brought to Rajasthan by the Mughals, and over time, it became a staple of Rajasthani jewellery. Meenakari work is usually done on the reverse side of Kundan jewellery, making it reversible and versatile. The art involves engraving the metal with intricate designs and then filling these designs with vibrant enamel colors. The process is complex and requires skilled artisans to execute. Meenakari jewellery is cherished for its vivid colors and intricate designs, embodying the spirit of Rajasthan’s rich artistic traditions.
Thewa is a unique art form that involves embossing intricately worked-out sheet gold on molten glass. Originating from Pratapgarh district in Rajasthan, Thewa jewellery combines the Mughal and Rajput styles of art, presenting themes from Hindu mythology, Mughal court scenes, and nature. The process of making Thewa jewellery is both delicate and time-consuming, often taking several days to complete a single piece. The resulting jewellery is exquisite and offers a glimpse into the historical and cultural narratives of Rajasthan.
Polki jewellery is another traditional form that has been part of Rajasthan’s heritage for centuries. Polki refers to uncut diamonds that are minimally processed to retain their natural beauty. These diamonds are set in gold with minimal embellishment, highlighting their raw and natural appeal. Polki jewellery is known for its understated elegance and has become increasingly popular in contemporary bridal trousseaus. The rustic charm of Polki, combined with traditional Rajasthani craftsmanship, creates pieces that are both timeless and majestic.
Lac jewellery, also known as Lacquer jewellery, is another traditional Rajasthani craft. It is made from Lac, a natural resin secreted by insects, which is then colored and molded into various shapes. Artisans often embellish Lac jewellery with beads, mirrors, and semi-precious stones to create vibrant and colorful pieces. Lac bangles, in particular, are a significant part of Rajasthani culture, worn by women on various occasions and festivals.
Rajasthan is also famous for its silver jewellery, characterized by its rustic, tribal designs. The nomadic tribes of Rajasthan, such as the Banjaras, have a rich tradition of wearing elaborate silver jewellery. These pieces are often heavy and adorned with intricate carvings, symbols, and motifs that carry cultural significance. Silver jewellery from Rajasthan includes anklets, necklaces, earrings, and armlets, each piece telling a story of its own.
Gujarat, a vibrant state on the western coast of India, is as rich in its cultural heritage as it is in its historical significance. Among the many treasures Gujarat offers, its traditional jewellery stands out for its unique designs, craftsmanship, and cultural relevance. The jewellery of Gujarat is not just an adornment but a reflection of the state’s age-old traditions, the artistry of its people, and the colorful tapestry of its social fabric. From the tribal belts of the Bhuj region to the bustling lanes of Ahmedabad, every piece of jewellery tells a story, embodying the spirit and the heritage of Gujarat
Patola, the pride of Gujarat’s textiles, is known for its vibrant colors, intricate designs, and the laborious process that goes into making it. Taking inspiration from this exquisite silk, Gujarat also produces Patola Silk Inspired jewellery, which incorporates the same detailed patterns and vibrant colors into its designs. This type of jewellery often uses silk threads, embedded within gold or silver frameworks, adorned with precious stones to mimic the Patola designs. Wearing this jewellery is considered a symbol of status and prosperity, much like the Patola sarees themselves.
Gujarat is home to various tribal communities, each with its distinct style of silver jewellery. These pieces are characterized by their rustic appeal, heavy designs, and motifs that carry cultural significance. The tribal regions of Kutch and Saurashtra, in particular, are known for their exceptional silver craftsmanship. This jewellery ranges from elaborate neckpieces, chunky bracelets, and bangles to distinctive anklets and earrings. The designs often incorporate symbols of fertility, nature, and animals, reflecting the close bond the tribes share with their environment.
Beadwork is an integral part of Gujarati craft, with its history tracing back to the Indus Valley Civilization. Gujarat’s beadwork jewellery is celebrated for its diversity in colors, materials, and designs. The artisans use a variety of beads, such as glass, metal, wooden, and semi-precious stones, to create intricate necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. This type of jewellery is especially popular during the Navratri festival, where both men and women adorn themselves with vibrant beadwork jewellery to participate in the traditional Garba dance.
Gujarat also specializes in Minakari (or Meenakari) and Kundan jewellery, similar to the styles popular in Rajasthan but with a distinct Gujarati touch. Minakari involves the art of coloring and ornamenting the surface of metals by fusing over brilliant colors that are decorated in an intricate design. In Gujarat, Minakari is often combined with Kundan (the art of setting precious stones in gold) to create jewellery that is vibrant yet elegant. These pieces are particularly sought after for weddings and other festive occasions, reflecting the state’s love for color and festivity.
Gold jewellery holds a special place in Gujarati culture, signifying not only wealth and prosperity but also being an integral part of Gujarat’s tradition. The designs often draw inspiration from nature, mythology, and architecture, mirroring the state’s rich history and cultural narratives. Gujarati gold jewellery is known for its intricate jali work, filigree, and the traditional motifs such as peacocks, elephants, and the tree of life, making it a favorite among brides and for other auspicious occasions.
Gharchola and Bandhani are traditional textiles of Gujarat, known for their distinctive tie-dye technique and grid patterns. Inspired by these textiles, artisans have created a unique line of jewellery that imitates these patterns through the use of colorful stones, enameling, and metalwork. This type of jewellery adds a traditional yet contemporary touch to any outfit, embodying the essence of Gujarati culture.
Lacquer jewellery, or Lac jewellery, is another traditional craft of Gujarat. Made from a natural resin obtained from certain trees, Lac is molded and colored with vibrant dyes, often embellished with mirrors, stones, and beads. This type of jewellery is popular for its bright colors and lightweight, making it a preferred choice for daily wear as well as for festive occasions.
West Bengal, a state in eastern India, is celebrated for its rich cultural heritage, literary legacy, and diverse traditions, which extend to its distinctive jewellery. Bengali jewellery, characterized by its intricate designs, craftsmanship, and deep cultural significance, holds a special place in the hearts of its people. From the vibrant streets of Kolkata to the serene landscapes of the Sundarbans, the traditional jewellery of West Bengal tells a tale of history, artistry, and elegance.
Filigree work, known locally as Tarakasi, is a delicate form of metalwork that involves twisting thin threads of gold or silver into intricate designs. This craft, which has its roots in ancient Bengal, demands a high level of skill and patience, as artisans create elaborate patterns that mimic the fine lacework. The designs often draw inspiration from natural elements like flowers, leaves, and birds, reflecting the deep connection of Bengali culture with nature. Filigree jewellery, including earrings, necklaces, and bangles, is admired for its elegance and intricacy, making it a cherished possession for many.
Dokra is one of the oldest forms of metal casting in India, practiced by the Dokra Damar tribes of West Bengal. This traditional craft uses a ‘lost-wax casting’ technique, where a model is made with wax and then covered with clay. The wax is melted away, and molten metal is poured into the cavity left behind. The result is stunning pieces of jewellery with a rustic and tribal appeal. Dokra jewellery, known for its distinctiveness and charm, includes necklaces, earrings, and bangles, each piece unique due to its handmade nature.
Terracotta, literally meaning ‘baked earth’, is another traditional craft of West Bengal. The state is renowned for its terracotta temples, and this art form extends to jewellery as well. Artisans mold local clay into various shapes and then bake them to create beautiful pieces of jewellery painted and glazed in vibrant colors. Terracotta earrings, necklaces, and bracelets are popular for their earthy appeal and are often adorned with traditional Bengali motifs, such as floral and geometric patterns.
Gold jewellery holds a place of immense importance in Bengali culture, especially in the context of weddings and other auspicious occasions. Traditional Bengali gold jewellery features unique designs that are deeply ingrained in the state’s heritage. Notable among these are the “Paati Haar” (a broad necklace), “Chur” (a type of bangle), “Jhumko” (bell-shaped earrings), and “Tikli” (a forehead ornament). Each piece is not just a work of art but also a symbol of wealth, status, and personal sentiment.
Which state is famous for which jewellery? Tamil Nadu is synonymous with Temple jewellery, originally created to adorn the gods and goddesses in temples. Today, these ornate pieces are a staple in Bharatanatyam dance performances, showcasing the state’s rich cultural heritage. Made of gold and embedded with precious stones, Temple jewellery exemplifies Tamil Nadu’s craftsmanship.
Which state is famous for which jewellery? Kerala’s love for gold is legendary. The state’s traditional jewellery, like the intricate “Mulla Mottu” (jasmine bud) and “Kasu Mala” (coin necklace), reflects the Malayali affinity for gold. Kerala’s designs are deeply rooted in its culture, often inspired by nature and religious motifs.
In answering the question, “Which state is famous for which jewellery?” We traverse the length and breadth of India, uncovering the rich tapestry of jewellery traditions that adorn its culture. Each state, with its unique materials, designs, and craftsmanship, contributes to the vast and diverse jewellery landscape of India. From Rajasthan’s Kundan and Meenakari to Kerala’s gold obsession, and from West Bengal’s Filigree work to Tamil Nadu’s Temple jewellery, the art of jewellery making in India is a testament to the country’s rich heritage.
Copyright © Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree since 1735
Copyright © Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree since 1735