Jadau jewellery, an emblem of regal allure and traditional craftsmanship, boasts a storied history deeply rooted in the cultural tapestry of the Indian subcontinent. This exquisite form of jewellery making is renowned for its intricate designs and the meticulous embedding of precious stones and gems into a base of gold, using highly skilled techniques that have been passed down through generations. The origin, evolution, and enduring popularity of Jadau jewellery offer a fascinating glimpse into the rich heritage of Indian artisanship and the cultural significance of adornment in Indian society.
The word “Jadau” is derived from the Hindi word ‘Jad,’ meaning to embed, which precisely describes the process involved in crafting Jadau jewellery. This technique is believed to have been introduced to India by the Mughals in the 16th century, who were great patrons of art and architecture and brought with them a rich tradition of jewellery making. The Mughal influence on Jadau work is evident in the intricate designs and the use of precious stones like emeralds, rubies, and diamonds, set in gold to create pieces of exquisite beauty.
Jadau jewellery quickly gained popularity among the Indian royalty and aristocracy, who were enchanted by its beauty and the symbol of status it represented. The craftsmanship of Jadau was nurtured in the princely courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where it was further refined and integrated with local design elements, making it a vital part of India’s artistic heritage. Over time, Jadau jewellery became synonymous with bridal wear and festive occasions, symbolizing prosperity, good luck, and protection against evil.
The process of creating Jadau jewellery is labor-intensive and requires the collaboration of skilled artisans, each specializing in different aspects of the craft. The process begins with the ‘Ghaaria’, who carves the design into the gold base. Then, the ‘Meenakar’ also known as Enamelled works on the enameling process, which involves fusing powdered glass to the metal to create colorful designs. The ‘Kundansaaz’ sets the stones into the gold without the use of adhesives, using only the metal’s flexibility to encase the stones. Finally, the ‘Polisher’ adds the finishing touches to the piece, bringing out its shine and luster.
While Jadau jewellery is crafted in several regions across India, Rajasthan, particularly the city of Jaipur, is famous for its Jadau artisans and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of this art form. Jaipur, often referred to as the ‘Pink City’, has been a hub of Jadau jewellery making for centuries, with its skilled artisans known for their mastery in integrating traditional designs with contemporary aesthetics. The royal courts of Rajasthan have historically patronized these artisans, leading to the proliferation of Jadau jewellery as a significant aspect of Rajasthani culture and heritage.
Rajasthan’s association with Jadau jewellery is not only about craftsmanship but also about the continuation of a tradition that adds to the cultural identity of the state. The jewellery pieces often depict motifs inspired by nature, religion, and folklore, resonating with the cultural narratives and historical legacies of the region. Jadau pieces from Rajasthan are highly sought after for their beauty, craftsmanship, and the rich history they embody, making them prized possessions and heirlooms passed down through generations.
Over time, various types of Jadau jewellery have emerged, each with its own unique characteristics and motifs, reflecting the diversity of India’s cultural landscape. This exploration into the types of Jadau jewellery will provide insight into the artistry and significance behind each piece.
Thewa jewellery represents a unique fusion of gold and glass, where intricate designs are embossed onto gold plaques and then fused onto colored glass backgrounds. This technique creates a stunning visual effect, with the gold designs standing out against the vibrant glass, creating pieces of jewellery that are both decorative and storytelling. Thewa jewellery originated in Rajasthan in the 18th century and is celebrated for its depiction of historical and mythological scenes, making it a wearable piece of art. The process of creating Thewa jewellery is time-consuming and requires exceptional craftsmanship, making each piece a unique testament to the artisan’s skill.
Navratna Jadau jewellery is a symbolic and astrologically significant type that incorporates nine specific gemstones, each representing a celestial body in Hindu astrology. These gemstones are ruby (Sun), pearl (Moon), coral (Mars), emerald (Mercury), yellow sapphire (Jupiter), diamond (Venus), blue sapphire (Saturn), hessonite (Rahu, the ascending lunar node), and cat’s eye (Ketu, the descending lunar node). Navratna Jadau pieces are not only valued for their aesthetic appeal but also for their supposed astrological benefits. The intricate setting of these nine gemstones in a gold base, using the Jadau technique, creates powerful talismans that are cherished for their beauty and spiritual significance.
Jadau bangles and bracelets are essential components of traditional Indian jewellery, known for their intricate designs and the luxurious embedding of stones. These pieces can range from simple, elegant designs to elaborate, heavily adorned creations, suitable for various occasions and preferences. Bangles and bracelets in the Jadau style are often worn in pairs or sets, adding a regal touch to the wearer’s ensemble.
Jadau necklaces and chokers are statement pieces that embody the essence of royalty and opulence. From elaborate chokers fitting closely around the neck to long, cascading necklaces that drape elegantly, these pieces are central to bridal jewellery collections and festive wear. The craftsmanship involved in creating Jadau necklaces and chokers is unparalleled, with each piece showcasing the beauty of the stones against the backdrop of gold.
Completing the ensemble are Jadau earrings and Maang Tikka (a traditional Indian headpiece), which are as varied in design as they are in their appeal. Earrings range from small studs to large, dangling pieces that complement the wearer’s face, while the Maang Tikka sits gracefully on the forehead, adding a touch of elegance and tradition to the bridal attire.
Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree Jewellers, a prestigious name in Jaipur, epitomizes the elegance and craftsmanship of traditional Jadau jewellery. Guided by the late Padmashri Prakash Chand Ji Surana and currently led by Mr. Chandra Surana, the brand represents a legacy of unparalleled craftsmanship, now in its 7th generation. Surana Jewellers specializes in Jadau Polki Jewellery, renowned for its intricate designs and exquisite craftsmanship, making their Bridal Jadau Sets highly sought after for their regal elegance and reflection of Mughal grandeur.
The brand distinguishes itself by its commitment to innovation while honoring tradition, crafting pieces that blend gold, Polki diamonds, pearls, and blue emeralds in unique designs that appeal to contemporary tastes. Surana Jewellers not only pays tribute to Jaipur’s rich cultural heritage but also extends its reach to Kolkata and Bangalore, inviting jewellery enthusiasts to experience the splendor of their collections. As custodians of a rich heritage, Surana Jewellers continues to captivate with its breathtaking designs, making it a prime destination for those seeking to own a piece of Jaipur’s celebrated jewellery tradition.
Jadau jewellery, with its rich history, intricate craftsmanship, and cultural significance, remains a cherished form of adornment in India and beyond. Its origin in the Mughal era and flourishing in the princely states of Rajasthan and Gujarat highlight the confluence of cultures and the evolution of Indian jewellery making traditions. Rajasthan, in particular, continues to be celebrated for its Jadau artisans, whose skills have been honed over centuries, ensuring that the art of Jadau jewellery making continues to thrive. As both a symbol of India’s rich heritage and a testament to the skill of its artisans, Jadau jewellery remains a timeless treasure, linking the past with the present and future.
Copyright © Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree since 1735
Copyright © Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree since 1735