In the royal era, Indian kings and queens were patrons of elegant and classic jewellery pieces. Indian men of that age were never seen without their jewellery. Jewellery during that era was not only a symbol of wealth but also a manifestation of power and royal pride. Across centuries, we have seen Indian kings manifesting jadau polki jewellery, uncut diamonds, pure gold, gemstones and meenakari jewellery. With the help of royal patronage, skilled craftsmen have designed masterpieces which remain awe-inspiring to this day. These jewels are more than adornments – they are legacies of the Indian kings. They evoke stories of their conquests, imperial prestige, love and devotion towards royalty.
Indian king and their jewels
According to jewellery historian Dr. Usha R. Balakrishnan, in ancient India, gender was not a primary concern for jewellery. Since most of the cultures and royal families required women to stay within the four walls of the “Mahals” it was the kings who were out on display. Jewellery thus became a source of power for the kings. Emperor Akbar, for instance, was popular for wearing Quranic inscriptions and astrologically significant stones.
On the other hand, Jahangir had requisitions for meenakari work, which is seen in most of the jewel pieces of that era. With the evolution of aesthetics, royal jewellery trends changed to forms like bejewelled buttons.
Notable kings and their jewel stories
Kings jewel box
The tuban ornament or the sarpech is one of the most prominent pieces of jewellery for Indian Kings. These ornaments signify temporal power, and they were centrally placed in the royal attire. The sarpech was plume-shaped and features exquisite rubies, emeralds, diamonds, sapphires and pearls set in gold.
Another important piece of jewellery for the kings was the bazuband or armband. This is not only a protective amulet, but it is also exemplified by the navarana, or the nine gemstones set in gold. In addition to these pieces, bejewelled rings, ornate pendants, lavish strands of pearls, and dazzling bracelets were some of the favourites of Indian kings. Again, the Ornate baldrics or belts held the emperor’s swords and weapons, and hence the emperor always preferred them to be made of precious gemstones set in gold.
Jewels in the treasury
Kings not only adorned wearing elegant jewel pieces but they also preferred keeping jewels and gold as treasures. Investment in gold was a practical decision. So, kings held their wealth in the form of jewels. Some notable mentions include the dynasty of Kapurthala, the Scindias of Gwalior, the Gaekwads of Baroda, the Mysore Maharajas, and the kingdom of Travancore. Among these, the Nizams of Hyderabad were unrivalled in their collection of jewels. It is found that the seventh Nizam possessed a 184-carat uncut gem known as the Jacob Diamond. Apart from that, historians have found ornaments such as gem-inlaid sarpechs and kadas (bracelets) in various remains of the kings. Some of the kings were such jewellery connoisseurs that, over time, they became trademark pieces and a part of their identity.
From the royalties worldwide to the greatest personalities from various spheres of life, it is a matter of privilege and pride that, over time, Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree, since 1735, has served them repeatedly. These relationships have been treasured and passed on from generation to generation with responsibility.